Coming from Munich on December 24 we did not expect that we would start sweating as soon as the ferry arrived and would sit down in the sun for our first frappé. As we drive across the island towards Azalas, the plane trees are of course bare in winter and the wind blows the leaves across the road, but it still doesn’t look like winter – in our sense of the word. There are lush green meadows dotted with small yellow flowers. The higher you get into the mountains, the more colorful the landscape becomes. The maple trees shine in all colors, with small leaves mainly in shades of green and red.
On arriving at Azalas we meet Angeliki, who is on her way to the beach for a swim, still possible so late in the year. The atmosphere still resembles late summer, even though the sun sets early. And the house gets quickly warm and cozy thanks to the wonderfully functional fireplace.
The sunrise in the morning – a magical play of colors, completely different every day. The sea – smooth as glass one day, then very rough and wild the next. It stays warm at first, but then stormy days follow. It’s overcast and the sea is raging. You have to protect yourself from the wind, but it’s not really cold even now. Autumn, really. And then it suddenly gets cold. You look towards Apiranthos and see that the island has been given a white cap. After a few hours, the mountains are covered deep in snow. You don’t get to see a snowman on Naxos every day…! But before you know it – the splendor lasts a day and then it gets warmer hour by hour and the snow moves further and further up again at the same speed. Soon the sun shines so intensely again that you sit in the sun in your shirt. And the children run around barefoot again, unimpressed. Only in the snow did they wear shoes.
This time of year has a special charm: It’s not hard to believe that we are the only strangers here at this time of year. Life is quiet, and the locals, who live here all year round, go about their normal everyday lives. In Moutsouna, a fish tavern and a café are open for Christmas and we are spontaneously invited in for a glass of retsina. The next day they even cook and light the fireplace. The villagers give us astonished looks – who is that coming at this time of the year?
It is the ideal place for a holiday between the years – even more leisure, even more tranquillity than usual; ideal for bringing the year to a close.
Christoph and Dina, Jan. 2016